I'm not a surfer. The thought of riding a wave (literally)....well, it's just not me.
The Wave which hits shelves of bookstores today. Hot off the press, the book enjoys great early reviews that excite my imagination. I want to learn more about what powers those waves, where they come from, and as the dust jacket tempts, I long for the excitement inherent "in (the) pursuit of the rogues, freaks and giants of the ocean".
I witnessed the gorgeous mystery and magic of roiling ocean all of my young life, growing up on an island in the southern Caribbean. Warned of the inherent dangers of rogue waves and under-tow currents I was cautious and respectful of the deep blue sea whether she rolled on to sandy shores or crashed into volcanic, rocky cliff. Always timid, never a wild child; I was an observer of the unpredicatable side of water.
I look forward to reading The Wave. I've certainly enjoyed viewing YouTube videos of daredevil big wave surfers. Maybe in another life....
Check this video. Amazing.