Italy After a Week

I haven't posted in a few days; by the evening, I'm either so tipsy on wine, tired out from all the activities, or spending time with the guide book planning for the next day. It's early in the morning now; you all in the USA are likely sleeping (I hope well). I'm listening to the sound of Vespa scooters buzz by the hotel window. Ubiquitous, noisy, and moving aggressively through main streets and side streets for about 18 hours a day. No surprise to me: this is one very vivid memory I took away from Florence the last time I was here way back in 1970.

We've been in Florence for a week now; it has been wonderful to see Laura and live the magnificence of this old city. The modern, totally overshadowed by history leaves me in awe, as it should. The memories of this very special trip will be with me forever.

The last couple days we've left the city for side trips. Wednesday we joined Rebecca, originally from Denmark, who moved to the area 13 years ago and who now owns and operates her own business, Tuscan Wine Tours. This day long trip started at 8:30 and ended at 6; we joined 3 other couples plus Rebecca for a personally guided tour through gorgeous Tuscan countryside south of Florence. We visited two very different wineries; both producers of the famous Brunello wines of the region and enjoyed an authentic Tuscan lunch with four courses plus bread and wine in a countryside home. The weather was gorgeous (and that says a lot since many of the days have been very rainy) which made for wine tasting possible outside on a porch with views of rolling hills in the distance and fresh pressed olive oil drizzled on crusty bread an absolute slice of paradise.

The first winery was quite small, organic and run by a woman originally from the U.K. and her Italian partner. We enjoyed an overview of the entire wine making process, from the grape vines, how they are maintained (pesticide free), pruned, harvested and mysteriously turned into great tasting Brunello wine; quite the art as well as science. Olive trees ready for picking were everywhere and she served us cold press fresh oil (....olives-on-the-tree-earlier-this-week fresh) bread and sea salt along with generously filled glasses of garnet colored wine.

The second winery, owned and operated by three generations living in the same home was a nice contrast to the first stop. The winery produces considerably more bottles and is more widely known commercially. We not only tasted the Brunellos but tried the grappa as well which reminded me a bit of kerosene (yum). The views of the Tuscan countryside from this locale were breathtaking. Both Denny and I remarked that we had never seen land like this, rolling hills with unique vegetation catching the light at mysteriously beautiful angles.

We made our purchases; two bottles to bring home (one of which is meant to be stored and savored years down the line) and two to drink here in Florence. We shared one of those bottles with Laura last evening in our hotel room. She's learning to enjoy wine; it's a process to detach from the sugary sweet shots and the local favorite Irish pub drink in Florence, the "Irish Car Bomb" (Guiness, Irish whiskey, and something else....ugh) that flourish during the college days of 2008.

Yesterday we made a soggy trip by train east to Pisa. I'll post more about that later. In the drenching rain I bought yet another umbrella from a street vendor. The leaning tower is definitely leaning. The Duomo cathedral and the Baptistry housed in the same square were equally impressive.

Today we'll stay put in Florence since rain is again in the forecast. The weekend should be drier and we're' tentatively planning a trip to Lucca, a walled city northeast of Florence that is highly rated. Each day brings new treasures (and challenges). I'm glad to be here. As our time winds down, I have bittersweet feelings about returning home.