Remembering Berlin

Laura finds herself in Berlin today; joined up with 120 students from GU and other colleges for the start of Opening Tour, a ten day trip prior to arrival in Florence for the official start of fall semester (e.g. academics) She enjoyed her first "legal beer" earlier today and from the emails and blog postings, she sounds pumped up about the trip, albeit a bit jet-lagged. It won't take long for these 20-somethings to rebound into action. I'm envious of her opportunities to visit the great cities of Berlin, Krakow, and Prague but will live the experience vicariously, through her eyes.

When I was sixteen, Mom and I made a side trip to Berlin during my one and only visit to Europe. The three day jaunt was a spontaneous afterthought. Dad, who'd journeyed with us through Scandinavia, Bavaria, France, and Italy was on a shorter timetable and had to leave early to get back to work. After his departure, Mom and I had an extra ten days to take in other destinations before heading home. Mom had always wanted to visit East Germany, specifically the divided city of Berlin. As a history teacher, she'd taught about the Cold War, post WW II Germany, and the infamous Berlin Wall for years. She was passionate about seeing with her own eyes and I was the lucky one to accompany her.

Mom and I flew from Frankfurt to Berlin and stayed at a hotel in West Berlin near Checkpoint Charlie. We crossed into East Berlin twice during our stay, through the checkpoint where passports were taken into the "back room" for inspection while we waited patiently in a sparsely furnished, sterile looking waiting area. Mom remembers that it took a long time for the officials to clear her passport and she fantasized that some secret, undercover shenanigans held up the process. She also remembers the armed guards using under-car mirrors to inspect all vehicles, especially buses as they passed through the security point. I recall being instructed by authorities that certain picture taking was verboten (some buildings and of course, "the wall") while in East Berlin. We risked having our camera confiscated if caught photographing something on this "no take" list.

I'd love to remember with clarity all those moments spent in East Berlin in July 1970 but only snippets remain. It was cool, cloudy and breezy when we visited and walked the streets to get a feel for the differences between East and West. I remember visiting a famous museum and a rather plain lunch in the museum restaurant. But, what struck me most was the feeling that while West Berlin was like living in a color photograph, East Berlin was life in black and white. I remember shades of grey everywhere; people, buildings, and sky. Many buildings were well preserved and beautiful (the museum) but there were also many standing in partial or complete rubble. There were no flowers and minimal green. The people in East Berlin mimicked the greyness of the surroundings. They were plainly dressed in shades of grey, black, and brown. Not only were voices muted, there were few sounds of cars and no motorcycle noise. Quiet.

Feeling like we were being watched at every turn, there was a palpable sense of relief crossing back into the western side of the city. West Berlin stood in sharp contrast, even to the eye of a 16 year old. Everything was in color. Billboard advertising, loud noises, people's voices, vehicles of all kinds, smells of food; all these signs of a city alive and moving with restless energy. Experiencing the differences created by this draconian Wall was the purpose of the visit and I got that, loud and clear. Thanks to Mom who felt a lesson in History, despite the times and the inner jitters (hers), was too good to pass up.

Yesterday I asked Mom what happened to all those photographs we took that summer in Europe, specifically the ones of Berlin. I'd really like to find them, scan them into the computer, and share them with Laura as she experiences the city in 2008. Mom says the pictures (or slides) are in a red box somewhere at the Arapahoe house. Hmmmm. I don't have a lot to work with here but I may go and rifle through the small office to see what I can find.

In the meantime, I'm reveling in fond memories of days past when mother and daughter experienced a Berlin very different from the city my dearest daughter sees today.